May 2

Our day involved driving from the salt pans of Etosha to the ancient granite mountains of Damaraland.

We lingered over breakfast (thanks to Charlotte for the great omlettes) then dove south about 100km to Outjo. Here we stopped for pastries at a German cafė, so German the fair-haired woman serving us seemed unable to understand our ignorance about the contents of the various German pastries. This cafe is apparently a must-stop destination for busloads of German tourists. We refueled and reprovisioned then drove west.

The air was hot, the landscape was barren and dry, and we no longer saw wild animals. Instead, we saw small groups of cows and goats, plus a few people and their simple habitations. The paved road ended with still well over 100 km ahead to our next camp. A few very poor, rural "farms" could be seen along our route, dusty collections of small shacks with tin roofs. A local guide later told us it was school break, which is why we saw so many children home from residential school, hanging out on the side of the road. Their were usually holding up hand-made "art" and trinkets for sale to anyone passing by. And why in this remote area would there be so many We were on our way to a national monument: Twyfelfontein or Ui/Ais Stone Age rock engravings.

We began to detect mountains on the distant horizon. As wet got closer to the mountains we noticed outcroppings of smooth, round, red boulders, which glowed in the late afternoon sun. There were many dips in the road, mostly dry river beds which are mostly soft sand channels through the dry sand and rocky landscape.

Out campsite beside the dry Aba Huab riverbed was sandy and hot. We chose a spot in the shade of a large tree and proceeded to set up camp. The hot, dry air left us feeling lethargic. We sipped cold drinks from our fridge and played a game of scrabble in the shade.

Charlotte prepared us a delicious lamb stew. Al provided some tasty South African wine.

For the first time our sleep was interrupted by the hum of mosquitoes and / or flies, but at least we are south of the malarial zone.

I have attempted to post photos but the Internet is too slow here.