Tuesday, May 21, 2013

May 12

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Mata mata  to  Nossob 

I got up at first light, as usual, but it was much colder than usual.  So cold, in fact, that there was a layer of ice on the cup of water I had left out the night before.  My fingertips were cold and I could see my breath!  As well, there was frost on the metal table.  

We had all felt cold during the night.  I slept in my wooly long johns, Marino wool top, and wore my fleece hat in bed!  Why had I even brought these items to Africa?  A few months earlier I had read a blog written about a trip to this dessert and learned that weather can go from too hot during the day to below freezing during the night.  

We lingered at the campsite while the sun gradually warms the air.  It was Mothers Day and we celebrated with a delicious egg and beans breakfast, thanks to Charlotte and Devon.  

Around 10am we finally got underway, three hours later than the keeners who packed up in the dark and exited the camp site as soon as the gates opened.  Campsites in this park are enclosed by animal-proof wire (and electric) fences and camp gates ate locked from 6 pm to 7 am.  Campers line up before the gates are unlocked so they can see animals at first light. So we were late!  

We drove along the gravel roads looking for animals.  Soon we saw a gathering of about 18 giraffes, all browsing on low bushes.  We also saw some springboks, a total of about 200 during our 5 hours of driving.  We began to see Wildebeasts, mostly standing on their own, for a total of about 80.  Then we began to spot Hartebeasts, with more as we went east, for a total of about 50.  Oryx gemsbok became plentiful and we eventually saw about 200.  The most exciting mammal siting for us, because it was new and rare:  2 cheetah laying in the shade of a tree.  We also saw our first dik-dik, just 2 of them. 

Birds were plentiful two.  We saw over 30 pairs of ostrich, some raptors, bate leur, grouse and even an owl.  On the ground we spotted cape squirrels and slender mongoose.  



Humans are not free to roam in this park.  We stopped briefly at two designated picnic spots (with flush toilets) but the rest of the time we had to remain in the car.  The roads are gravel and sand.  The speed limit is 50km but most of the time we were going more slowly, looking for or at animals.  We were happy to arrive at our next camp so we could get out of the vehicle and roam.  The camp has a swimming pool where the braver females had a dip even though the water was quite cold. 

Devon and Charlotte created another great meal, a Mother's day feast complimented by Charlottes freshly baked-in-a-cast-iron-pot bread.

We bundled up for a chilly night.  After a look for animals from the excellent blind at the camp, and a competitive Scrabble game, we all snuggled under our sleeping bags in our cozy tents. 



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