An amazing month of travel in South Africa, Botswana and especially Namibia has -sadly- come to an end. Our past week around the Western Cape has been most enjoyable, and a wonderfully different kind of travel with Charlotte and Devon. They flew north yesterday to begin theirmnext adventure, a cycle trip across Europe. We are flying back to London tonight, then on to Sweden where we will find Darwin Sound and begin another sailing season.
We hope you enjoyed following our simple log, and that in a couple of weeks you will click of the site to view the photos that will soon be uploaded. In the meantime, we would love to hear from you!
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
May 16
Our first cloudy morning in Namibia! The sun burst through the clouds, creating a beautiful red sky. We lingered at our lovely campsite. Charlotte made fresh scones in our iron pot.
Finally it was time to leave. We drove our first paved roads in a long time, stopping for a picnic lunch en route to Windhoek. Some baboons were along side the road in one area. We saw a little more traffic, this being the main road from Cape Town to Windhoek.
After lunch we stopped at GocheGanas, an amazing private game reserve, lodge and wellness centre owned by Vic's friend Udo. With luxury lodges for 30 guest, pools, exercise equipment, star viewing, all on a mountaintop setting, this was the top of the top for a place to stay. As well it had several white rhino, giraffes, antelope, and with abundant forest, any birds.
By mid afternoon we were back in Windhoek and settled at our final campsite
May 15
Yes, this is a couple mating......taking a walk between mating sessions, which can take place every 15 minutes for over 24 hours.... Google it!
Kgalagadi NP, Twee Rivieren and western area.
We began again before sunrise, exiting the campsite as soon as the gate opened at 7 am. The sun soon came up over the dunes and we stopped multiple times for some photos.
At a designated picnic site we visited a small crafter house, reminiscent of Scotland, and learned a bit about early settlers in this desert.
We were satiated and it was time to move on. We stopped anew more times to view and photograph animals, sighted a recent kill of an Oryx, now being finished off by a half dozen Jackels, with another half dozen white backed vultures waiting their turn, then exited the park around noon and drove west.
We decided to stop at Gouchas to refuel. It was a small place, but boasted a lodge, a hotel, groceries and even a cafe. At the fuel station we saw the usual welcoming arm wave from the guy at the pump, and pulled up as he encouraged, only to find out there was no fuel at the station! Again, why all the welcome gestures when the pumps were empty?
Our two tanks were almost empty, but we had enough for the 70km distance to the next berg, where we had spotted a station on our way through en route to the Kgalagadi. We hoped it would be open, and still have fuel to sell! (it was all good)
Our next camp was lovely, a private area surrounded by a vast open grassland in a private reserve. Only three campsites are located at this lodge and each is so far away for the other that one cannot even see the other.
Charlotte and Devon went for a long run around the reserve tracks. We also took advantage of our large, private campsite to completely unpack and clean our vehicle.
May 14
We decided to start early again, getting up in the dark and leaving the camp as soon as the camp gate was unlocked at 7 am. This meant lining up at the park reception, waiting for someone to arrive and give us back our permit. About 6 others were also waiting and we all enjoyed talking as we waited. One of the South Africans would like to sail to Alaska. Another told of being trapped inside her tent when a lion was roaming around. Another worked for a mining company with offices in Canada. The people we meet in campgrounds were always friendly, and interesting, but also almost always white South Africans. There truly is an economic apartheid that has replaced the racist one.
The sun was not yet up, but the skyline was a rosy pink as we left the camp. We drove along the side loop we had enjoyed the afternoon before. We looked again at lion tracks in the sand. Then suddenly we saw the lion walking along our sand road in front of us!
May 13
Kgalagadi NP, Nossob-Nossob
We decided to exit camp early for a sunrise drive. This meant getting up in the dark, packing away the roof tent, and lining up at the camp reception to pick up our permit before the gate was to open at 7 am. We were first out, followed by at least half a dozen other early risers. Our goal was to photograph the desert at first light, hopefully with some animals in the for ground!
We saw many of the same animals, which was great. We also saw our first hyenas, both the brown and the spotted. They were chewing on bones, and consequently being followed by jackals, which were hoping to pick up a few abandoned morsels of food.
We decided to return to camp for lunch, and spend the afternoon around the camp. After a delicious lunch of veggies, salads and cheeses we relaxed for a couple of hours. We started a new scrabble game, had showers, did some laundry, and read.
Around 4pm we went off for a late afternoon drive around a loop and past a water hole, hoping to find the lion,that had left clear foot printsminmthe sandy roadway. The sun was lovely and the usual animals were especially photogenic, but we saw no cats of any sort.
Dinner was another tasty meal compliments of chefs Charlotte and Devon. We had a warming fire in the braii (BBQ) pit as these desert evenings are cold!
We decided to exit camp early for a sunrise drive. This meant getting up in the dark, packing away the roof tent, and lining up at the camp reception to pick up our permit before the gate was to open at 7 am. We were first out, followed by at least half a dozen other early risers. Our goal was to photograph the desert at first light, hopefully with some animals in the for ground!
We saw many of the same animals, which was great. We also saw our first hyenas, both the brown and the spotted. They were chewing on bones, and consequently being followed by jackals, which were hoping to pick up a few abandoned morsels of food.
We decided to return to camp for lunch, and spend the afternoon around the camp. After a delicious lunch of veggies, salads and cheeses we relaxed for a couple of hours. We started a new scrabble game, had showers, did some laundry, and read.
Around 4pm we went off for a late afternoon drive around a loop and past a water hole, hoping to find the lion,that had left clear foot printsminmthe sandy roadway. The sun was lovely and the usual animals were especially photogenic, but we saw no cats of any sort.
Dinner was another tasty meal compliments of chefs Charlotte and Devon. We had a warming fire in the braii (BBQ) pit as these desert evenings are cold!
May 12
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Mata mata to Nossob
Humans are not free to roam in this park. We stopped briefly at two designated picnic spots (with flush toilets) but the rest of the time we had to remain in the car. The roads are gravel and sand. The speed limit is 50km but most of the time we were going more slowly, looking for or at animals. We were happy to arrive at our next camp so we could get out of the vehicle and roam. The camp has a swimming pool where the braver females had a dip even though the water was quite cold.
I got up at first light, as usual, but it was much colder than usual. So cold, in fact, that there was a layer of ice on the cup of water I had left out the night before. My fingertips were cold and I could see my breath! As well, there was frost on the metal table.
We had all felt cold during the night. I slept in my wooly long johns, Marino wool top, and wore my fleece hat in bed! Why had I even brought these items to Africa? A few months earlier I had read a blog written about a trip to this dessert and learned that weather can go from too hot during the day to below freezing during the night.
We lingered at the campsite while the sun gradually warms the air. It was Mothers Day and we celebrated with a delicious egg and beans breakfast, thanks to Charlotte and Devon.
Around 10am we finally got underway, three hours later than the keeners who packed up in the dark and exited the camp site as soon as the gates opened. Campsites in this park are enclosed by animal-proof wire (and electric) fences and camp gates ate locked from 6 pm to 7 am. Campers line up before the gates are unlocked so they can see animals at first light. So we were late!
We drove along the gravel roads looking for animals. Soon we saw a gathering of about 18 giraffes, all browsing on low bushes. We also saw some springboks, a total of about 200 during our 5 hours of driving. We began to see Wildebeasts, mostly standing on their own, for a total of about 80. Then we began to spot Hartebeasts, with more as we went east, for a total of about 50. Oryx gemsbok became plentiful and we eventually saw about 200. The most exciting mammal siting for us, because it was new and rare: 2 cheetah laying in the shade of a tree. We also saw our first dik-dik, just 2 of them.
Birds were plentiful two. We saw over 30 pairs of ostrich, some raptors, bate leur, grouse and even an owl. On the ground we spotted cape squirrels and slender mongoose.
Devon and Charlotte created another great meal, a Mother's day feast complimented by Charlottes freshly baked-in-a-cast-iron-pot bread.
We bundled up for a chilly night. After a look for animals from the excellent blind at the camp, and a competitive Scrabble game, we all snuggled under our sleeping bags in our cozy tents.
May11
To Mata-Mata camp in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
We left around noon and drove a few hours further east and south to the border crossing into South Africa and the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
The drive was uneventful. There wasn't any traffic. The gravel roads took us through some lovely desert terrain covered with scrub and grasses. A few houses dotted the landscape, as well as a few lodges which are not in the guide books.
Mata-Mata camp seemed dusty and crowded after our clean, grassy site mso Devon drove our vehicle over to the edge of the wire game fence, as far from the other campers as possible. Another camper I met soon afterwards laughed, saying we were definitely going to tempt the hungry lions by camping so close to the fence. We imagined lions roaming on the other side of the fence but slept all night never saw any nocturnal visitors.
As with most NP camps, we were locked in from sunset to sunrise. A viewing area (blind) gave us a great view over a pan where animals tend to gather, and where nocturnal animals might display some behavior of interest to us. But, as with most evenings, we went to bed fairly early and no animals visited before we decided it was time for bed .
IreneMay 10
Naukluft NP
We woke up to another lovely day in Namibia, this time in the mountains with a fresh water stream gurgling along nearby, a lone baboon on watch for any carelessness on our part, plus wonderful birds in the trees, all watched over by an eagle on a rocky cliff high above us.
We made off for a hike along the Olive Trail, so named because of the wild olive tress that grow here. Essentially it goes up some 500 meters to a plateau, then back down a narrow canyon. This differed from our past two weeks in that there was little wildlife to view, although we were briefly led away from the suggested path by a group of mountain Zebra.
The trail went first along and up the side of hillside, then rose steeply above a dry creek bed, continued across the top of a high plateau, then plunged down into a deep, narrow canyon where the route followed a rough, rocky, dry river channel.
In one section a chain has been set up along the side of a steep ravine above a deep pool of water. In some sections we had to clamber over high boulders. In others we balanced on fields of smaller boulders. The scenery, the red and orange striped rocks, and the desert plants were great. Most of all we loved the high, steep canyon walls and the colourful, twisted strata.
We were told the hike would take 4 hours but Charlotte and Devon were done in about 3 hours while Al and I took dawdled and took closer to 5 hours. We were all very happy to be hiking (most of the NP require visitors to remain safely in their cars). Although we were concerned about the heat, we found much of the trail was either in the shade, or in a breeze, so the usually intense heat of the day was not oppressive.
There are other appealing hikes in the area, some multi-day adventures which we would all have enjoyed given more time and the appropriate gear. Certainly we could happily spend a full week hiking around in this mountain park.
Unfortunately, we were only there for an introductory visit and by early afternoon it was time to drive south and east to our next camp. After a couple of hours on quiet, gravel road we arrived at sunset in a quiet campsite beside a castle surrounded by open grasslands and hills.
The castle ? Something to visit in the morning....
We prepared a campfire and another tasty meal, set up our tents, enjoyed a hot shower, then turned in for a welcome sleep in our lovely, quiet surroundings.
May 9
Naukluft NP
We woke up to another lovely day in Namibia, this time in the mountains with a fresh water stream gurgling along nearby, a lone baboon on watch for any carelessness on our part, plus wonderful birds in the trees, all watched over by an eagle on a rocky cliff high above us.
We made off for a hike along the Olive Trail, so named because of the wild olive tress that grow here. Essentially it goes up some 500 meters to a plateau, then back down a narrow canyon. This differed from our past two weeks in that there was little wildlife to view, although we were briefly led away from the suggested path by a group of mountain Zebra.
The trail went first along and up the side of hillside, then rose steeply above a dry creek bed, continued across the top of a high plateau, then plunged down into a deep, narrow canyon where the route followed a rough, rocky, dry river channel. In one section a chain has been set up along the side of a steep ravine above a deep pool of water. In some sections we had to clamber over high boulders. In others we balanced on fields of smaller boulders. The scenery, the red and orange striped rocks, and the desert plants were great. Most of all we loved the high, steep canyon walls and the colourful, twisted strata.
We were told the hike would take 4 hours but Charlotte and Devon were done in about 3 hours while Al and I took dawdled and took closer to 5 hours. We were all very happy to be hiking (most of the NP require visitors to remain safely in their cars). Although we were concerned about the heat, we found much of the trail was either in the shade, or in a breeze, so the usually intense heat of the day was not oppressive.
There are other appealing hikes in the area, some multi-day adventures which we would all have enjoyed given more time and the appropriate gear. Certainly we could happily spend a full week hiking around in this mountain park.
Unfortunately, we were only there for an introductory visit and by early afternoon it was time to drive south and east to our next camp. After a couple of hours on quiet, gravel road we arrived at sunset in a quiet campsite beside a castle surrounded by open grasslands and hills.
The castle ? Something to visit in the morning....
We prepared a campfire and another tasty meal, set up our tents, enjoyed a hot shower, then turned in for a welcome sleep in our lovely, quiet surroundings.
Irene
Sent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?
Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com
We woke up to another lovely day in Namibia, this time in the mountains with a fresh water stream gurgling along nearby, a lone baboon on watch for any carelessness on our part, plus wonderful birds in the trees, all watched over by an eagle on a rocky cliff high above us.
We made off for a hike along the Olive Trail, so named because of the wild olive tress that grow here. Essentially it goes up some 500 meters to a plateau, then back down a narrow canyon. This differed from our past two weeks in that there was little wildlife to view, although we were briefly led away from the suggested path by a group of mountain Zebra.
The trail went first along and up the side of hillside, then rose steeply above a dry creek bed, continued across the top of a high plateau, then plunged down into a deep, narrow canyon where the route followed a rough, rocky, dry river channel. In one section a chain has been set up along the side of a steep ravine above a deep pool of water. In some sections we had to clamber over high boulders. In others we balanced on fields of smaller boulders. The scenery, the red and orange striped rocks, and the desert plants were great. Most of all we loved the high, steep canyon walls and the colourful, twisted strata.
We were told the hike would take 4 hours but Charlotte and Devon were done in about 3 hours while Al and I took dawdled and took closer to 5 hours. We were all very happy to be hiking (most of the NP require visitors to remain safely in their cars). Although we were concerned about the heat, we found much of the trail was either in the shade, or in a breeze, so the usually intense heat of the day was not oppressive.
There are other appealing hikes in the area, some multi-day adventures which we would all have enjoyed given more time and the appropriate gear. Certainly we could happily spend a full week hiking around in this mountain park.
Unfortunately, we were only there for an introductory visit and by early afternoon it was time to drive south and east to our next camp. After a couple of hours on quiet, gravel road we arrived at sunset in a quiet campsite beside a castle surrounded by open grasslands and hills.
The castle ? Something to visit in the morning....
We prepared a campfire and another tasty meal, set up our tents, enjoyed a hot shower, then turned in for a welcome sleep in our lovely, quiet surroundings.
Irene
Sent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?
Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com
Saturday, May 18, 2013
Thursday, May 16, 2013
May 8
May 8
Sesrium & Namib-Naukluft
We began our day before sunrise, driving back into the dunes just after a 6 am. There was actually a line-up of vehicles waiting outside the park gates, which is what Bonnie had alerted us to. This is the reason we reserved far in advance to ensure ourselves a spot at the one campsite inside the park gates.
The park gates didnt open for others until well after we were back at the dunes so we had made a good decision!
This time we hiked up a different dune. Al and I hiked up the main ridge and along for some distance. Charlotte and Devon proceeded along several ridges to multiple summits. It was an amazing experience!
A picture tells a thousand words; we hope you will return to see our photos in a week or two, after we will have found suffient Internet to actually post photos.
Our next adventure of the day was a short hike down the Sesrium (dry) river canyon. At first we only saw the narrow crack from above, and no way down. Then we discovered a way in and were able to walk a good distance. The canyon was dry except for a couple of small pools, but debris on the canyon walls indicates how high the water can be - and how powerful- during,those few weeks each year when the water is running.
We headed off to our next destination: Namib-Naukluft NP. We were only going a short distance east into the mountains but driving around the mountains and on gravel roads seemed to take a few hours.
When we were almost at the park gate we got a flat tyre! Devon rose the occasion and within less than 25 minutes we were driving again. Impressive!
The N-N NP is an appealing place for hiking, which was our goal for our relatively short visit. Once we had our tent set up on the creek edge we followed a trail along the creek and up a small hillside. (Yes, the creek actually had water in it! ). The trail we followed was part of a multi-day hike which we would have enjoyed. However, when the sun goes down around 5 pm and it is full-on DARK by 6 pm we had to restrict our late afternoon hike to a limited area. the next day we would hike a linger circuit.....
There were baboons around the camp, which we were warned about be because they can be quite aggressive, and destructive. We were warned to NOT leave our tents up while away for a hike, and to NEVER leave any food unattended. We were warned that baboons had been known to jump on tents and tear them apart. However, while we were in camp the baboons kept a safe distance and were no problem for us.
We turned in early - as usual - because after several hours of darkness it seemed the obvious option, and because we planned to get up early for our hike the next morning.
Saturday, May 11, 2013
May 7
Solitude to Sesrium
Our day began (for Al and I) with a sunrise hike up a rocky hill near our camp. Near the top we found a colony of hyrax, and a few individuals watching us watch them. As well, we had a 360 degree view over the plains. In the meantime Charlotte went running and Devon enjoyed some alone time playing his guitar.
Generally we spend the first few hours of each day at our camp, then drive during the hottest hours of the day (when it would be too uncomfortable to be walking around).
This is gorgeous country, the views from even a small hill fill the eye with memories that will last. Of course, sunrise or sunset brings out the purple hues, Desert distances becoming vague: ' is that a few kilometers off, or is it hundreds...?'
We returned to camp, Char returned from a good run, a breakfast was set out. This was followed by a little procrastinating over what passed for Internet, then eventually we were off down the dusty road. We had on a few km to go though, as soon we had the entertainment of a stop in Solitaire - population 97 - which is really just a gas station and small shop. The creative locals had on display a number of old car wrecks. Very western. (photos will be posted)
It was only 100 K to the park gates at Sesriem. We arrived just hafter noon, located our designated campsite, had a quick lunch, and proceeded promptly out to Sussuvlei because Irene had a whole schedule of events in our near future. About 40 km later we are in in the Namib dunes. It is only later that we understood that we are seeing perhaps a thousandth of one percent, but it is truly magnificent. We ignored the ostrich and springbok because they seemed insignificant to the backdrop of huge red dunes.
At the end of sixty km of pavement the sign reads 4x4 only, and in 100 meters we shifted to 4 low. Yet we still felt quite threatened because the sand here is soft, and deep. Al was having fun with the challenge, but we were alone enough that getting stuck would not be funny. We got through to the end of the road at a dry salt pan covering perhaps 10 Ha, then piled out for a hike up a red dune reaching 250 meters up and several km along. Devon and Charlotte set the pace, and we soon reached an obvious minor summit, then glissaded down a steep face in 60 seconds of leaps.
Back at the car Devon spotted a large owl in a tree, and thus attracted the attention of a small tour group. This allowed Irene to interview the Namibian guide, and find the location of a site that we had been wanting to find ever since admiring Bonnie's photos from here trip here a couple of years ago. A short drive then a 20 minute hike brought us over a couple sand ridges to a dry pan of perhaps 100 Ha, with dead trees interspersed throughout. So we captured some images of dark, dead trees on a white flat salt pan surrounded by incredibly red dunes reaching a hundred meters above us. Photos will be posted!
It was sunset and time to hurry back to our camp before the black of night, which comes far too quickly here. We turned in early with the plan to rise before dawn and hike up more dunes in the morning light.
Tuesday, May 7, 2013
May 6
Walvis Bay to Solitaire
The wind came up during the night again and by morning our camp site was uncomfortably dusty. We left promptly after a brief granola breakfast and headed inland. Sand blew across the road in strong gusts, reducing visibility and slowing,our progress.
We were heading east into the mountains and towards the Namib-Naukluft NP.
The pavement ended before long and we endured a few hours of the most uncomfortable washboard ever. Still, the scenery was amazing as we went from the coastal plains into the mountains.
I am reading a book called 'the sheltering desert' by Henno Martin, which describes this area. The book is a true story of two geologists who disappeared into this desert during WW2 and survived in this harsh environment for several years.
Our next camp was at a lovely guest farm in a place aptly named Solitaire. Of course the guest farm is lovely, a welcome oasis with fabulous views across this broad landscape.
Again, photos will be posted!
Our next destination is Sesrium, in the NP. We are unlikely to find any WIFI for a few days..
The wind came up during the night again and by morning our camp site was uncomfortably dusty. We left promptly after a brief granola breakfast and headed inland. Sand blew across the road in strong gusts, reducing visibility and slowing,our progress.
We were heading east into the mountains and towards the Namib-Naukluft NP.
The pavement ended before long and we endured a few hours of the most uncomfortable washboard ever. Still, the scenery was amazing as we went from the coastal plains into the mountains.
I am reading a book called 'the sheltering desert' by Henno Martin, which describes this area. The book is a true story of two geologists who disappeared into this desert during WW2 and survived in this harsh environment for several years.
Our next camp was at a lovely guest farm in a place aptly named Solitaire. Of course the guest farm is lovely, a welcome oasis with fabulous views across this broad landscape.
Again, photos will be posted!
Our next destination is Sesrium, in the NP. We are unlikely to find any WIFI for a few days..
May 5
Swakopmund to Walvis Bay
It was a windy night and our tents were flapping, keeping us awake! This kind of weather can make driving dangerous because desert sand blows over the coast road, creating ridges of sift sand and reducing visibility. We were glad we had already been up to Cape Cross as that section of road can apparently become impassible.
Irene started the day with a walk-run around Swakopmund. Wind blown sand was everywhere. Still, some photos were taken and will be posted.....
I returned to find that Devon created a full English breakfast, a great Sunday morning treat.
Charlotte and Deven spent most of the day at an Internet café while Al and I drove to Walvis Bay to see flamingos. Desert sand was blowing across the road, but driving was fine. Later the wind calmed down and the road was cleared.
Flamingos .....wonderful to see! Most were standing around in shallow water and some were even crossing the road right in front of where we parked! Again, photos will be posted for your enjoyment.
We had a lovely fish lunch at the local yacht club (mostly small power boats and jet skis, not sail boats) then we returned to Swakopmund to pick up Charlotte and Devon. By afternoon the local beach was busy and many people were splashing about in the sea, even though it's cold. A couple of people were paddle-boarding. This is apparently the beach destination of choice for Namibians.
We drove the 30 km back to Walvis Bay and camped at a small site just a 5 minute walk from the flamingos.
Irene
Sent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?
Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com
It was a windy night and our tents were flapping, keeping us awake! This kind of weather can make driving dangerous because desert sand blows over the coast road, creating ridges of sift sand and reducing visibility. We were glad we had already been up to Cape Cross as that section of road can apparently become impassible.
Irene started the day with a walk-run around Swakopmund. Wind blown sand was everywhere. Still, some photos were taken and will be posted.....
I returned to find that Devon created a full English breakfast, a great Sunday morning treat.
Charlotte and Deven spent most of the day at an Internet café while Al and I drove to Walvis Bay to see flamingos. Desert sand was blowing across the road, but driving was fine. Later the wind calmed down and the road was cleared.
Flamingos .....wonderful to see! Most were standing around in shallow water and some were even crossing the road right in front of where we parked! Again, photos will be posted for your enjoyment.
We had a lovely fish lunch at the local yacht club (mostly small power boats and jet skis, not sail boats) then we returned to Swakopmund to pick up Charlotte and Devon. By afternoon the local beach was busy and many people were splashing about in the sea, even though it's cold. A couple of people were paddle-boarding. This is apparently the beach destination of choice for Namibians.
We drove the 30 km back to Walvis Bay and camped at a small site just a 5 minute walk from the flamingos.
Irene
Sent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?
Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com
May 4
Brandburg to Swakopmund
It was a warm, windy night at our camp. The tents were flapping and noisy, but at least,the breeze kept the bugs away. Our "riverine" camp was below the Brandberg mountains and beside the dry Ugab River, at a relatively new lodge called the Brandburg White Lady Lodge. After a simple breakfast we were underway again, heading south to Uis then west out to Hentiesbaii on the Atlantic coast. The landscape became flat, sandy and barren.
Along the way we stopped to admire one of many roadside stalls selling "gemstones" . After a short time looking at the collections a mother and two young boys appeared. Charlotte chose a few small gems, for which she paid about $2. Devon gave the boys fresh pears. Along this route we saw many small dwellings, mostly tin shacks. At one place an extended family appeared to be living in lean-tos covered in scraps of plastic. Obvious poverty here contrasted its the neat thatch huts we saw along the Caprivi strip, where people may have been poor but not living in poverty the way they appeared to be surviving here.
We drove north along the salt road to Cape Cross, stopping on the beach for a lunch picnic. The sea was cold and the waves suggested a dangerous undertow so we walked only in shallow water along the sandy beach.
About 30 km further north we came to Cape Cross and the cape seal reserve. Hundreds of seals were basking in the sun, swimming, and even 'porpoising' in the surf. Young were still nursing, something we have never seen before in all our years of sea mammal observations.
We have some excellent photos but Internet here is not fast enough to post any.
From Cape Cross we drove south about 100 km to Swakopmund, where we camped in the most developed urban campsite so far. Our site had a private brick building with a full toilet and shower facility, as well as kitchen and braii area.
Devon and Charlotte treated us to a seafood feast out at a waterfront restaurant called the Jetty.
Photos of the shoreline will also be posted later.
Irene
Sent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?
Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com
It was a warm, windy night at our camp. The tents were flapping and noisy, but at least,the breeze kept the bugs away. Our "riverine" camp was below the Brandberg mountains and beside the dry Ugab River, at a relatively new lodge called the Brandburg White Lady Lodge. After a simple breakfast we were underway again, heading south to Uis then west out to Hentiesbaii on the Atlantic coast. The landscape became flat, sandy and barren.
Along the way we stopped to admire one of many roadside stalls selling "gemstones" . After a short time looking at the collections a mother and two young boys appeared. Charlotte chose a few small gems, for which she paid about $2. Devon gave the boys fresh pears. Along this route we saw many small dwellings, mostly tin shacks. At one place an extended family appeared to be living in lean-tos covered in scraps of plastic. Obvious poverty here contrasted its the neat thatch huts we saw along the Caprivi strip, where people may have been poor but not living in poverty the way they appeared to be surviving here.
We drove north along the salt road to Cape Cross, stopping on the beach for a lunch picnic. The sea was cold and the waves suggested a dangerous undertow so we walked only in shallow water along the sandy beach.
About 30 km further north we came to Cape Cross and the cape seal reserve. Hundreds of seals were basking in the sun, swimming, and even 'porpoising' in the surf. Young were still nursing, something we have never seen before in all our years of sea mammal observations.
We have some excellent photos but Internet here is not fast enough to post any.
From Cape Cross we drove south about 100 km to Swakopmund, where we camped in the most developed urban campsite so far. Our site had a private brick building with a full toilet and shower facility, as well as kitchen and braii area.
Devon and Charlotte treated us to a seafood feast out at a waterfront restaurant called the Jetty.
Photos of the shoreline will also be posted later.
Irene
Sent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?
Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com
May 3
More Damaraland
Irene was first up, as usual, and started her day with a walk-run over the dry river bed and along the dusty road. After a shower and a hot drink the others got up. Breakfast was rather rushed because the flies were bothering us. And because we had a number of places we wanted to visit.
Twyfelfontein or /Ui-//Ais, at the head of the Aba Huas riverbed is home to over 2500 rock engravings from over 6000 years ago. The engravings depict animals and animal tracks, some realistic and some as if imagined in dreams. We were guided around the site by another engaging Damara man who - as with our guide the day before - also demonstrated the four clicks used in the Damara language. I found this intriguing, of course, and tried it out. The clicks are created by popping tongue against mouth cavity. The ! symbol represents 'pop-nga' sound made by quickly bringing a flat tongue down from top of the mouth....
From the rock engravings we drove a short distance to a rocky area called the 'Organ pipes' (because the basalt is split into columns), then another called 'Burnt mountain' (because the rock is so black it looks burned).
As we drove south we came across more and more interesting rock formations (photos to be added when we get faster internet). The smooth, rounded rocks piled in mounds reminded us of Joshua Tree NP in California.
We stopped for a picnic lunch in the shade of a thorn bush, which means we hardly had much shade at all.
Our day ended at a the foot of the Brandburg mountain, where we set up camp in another riverine site beside a wide, sandy (dry) riverbed. Charlotte and Devon opted to run to the camp, jogging along the sandy track in what we considered oppressive heat. Al and I opted to wait for them at the lodge, sipping cool a G&T s in the shade by the lodge pool. That evening we opted to eat out, which was appealing although not as good as our camp cooking!
Irene was first up, as usual, and started her day with a walk-run over the dry river bed and along the dusty road. After a shower and a hot drink the others got up. Breakfast was rather rushed because the flies were bothering us. And because we had a number of places we wanted to visit.
Twyfelfontein or /Ui-//Ais, at the head of the Aba Huas riverbed is home to over 2500 rock engravings from over 6000 years ago. The engravings depict animals and animal tracks, some realistic and some as if imagined in dreams. We were guided around the site by another engaging Damara man who - as with our guide the day before - also demonstrated the four clicks used in the Damara language. I found this intriguing, of course, and tried it out. The clicks are created by popping tongue against mouth cavity. The ! symbol represents 'pop-nga' sound made by quickly bringing a flat tongue down from top of the mouth....
From the rock engravings we drove a short distance to a rocky area called the 'Organ pipes' (because the basalt is split into columns), then another called 'Burnt mountain' (because the rock is so black it looks burned).
As we drove south we came across more and more interesting rock formations (photos to be added when we get faster internet). The smooth, rounded rocks piled in mounds reminded us of Joshua Tree NP in California.
We stopped for a picnic lunch in the shade of a thorn bush, which means we hardly had much shade at all.
Our day ended at a the foot of the Brandburg mountain, where we set up camp in another riverine site beside a wide, sandy (dry) riverbed. Charlotte and Devon opted to run to the camp, jogging along the sandy track in what we considered oppressive heat. Al and I opted to wait for them at the lodge, sipping cool a G&T s in the shade by the lodge pool. That evening we opted to eat out, which was appealing although not as good as our camp cooking!
May 2
Our day involved driving from the salt pans of Etosha to the ancient granite mountains of Damaraland.
We lingered over breakfast (thanks to Charlotte for the great omlettes) then dove south about 100km to Outjo. Here we stopped for pastries at a German cafė, so German the fair-haired woman serving us seemed unable to understand our ignorance about the contents of the various German pastries. This cafe is apparently a must-stop destination for busloads of German tourists. We refueled and reprovisioned then drove west.
The air was hot, the landscape was barren and dry, and we no longer saw wild animals. Instead, we saw small groups of cows and goats, plus a few people and their simple habitations. The paved road ended with still well over 100 km ahead to our next camp. A few very poor, rural "farms" could be seen along our route, dusty collections of small shacks with tin roofs. A local guide later told us it was school break, which is why we saw so many children home from residential school, hanging out on the side of the road. Their were usually holding up hand-made "art" and trinkets for sale to anyone passing by. And why in this remote area would there be so many We were on our way to a national monument: Twyfelfontein or Ui/Ais Stone Age rock engravings.
We began to detect mountains on the distant horizon. As wet got closer to the mountains we noticed outcroppings of smooth, round, red boulders, which glowed in the late afternoon sun. There were many dips in the road, mostly dry river beds which are mostly soft sand channels through the dry sand and rocky landscape.
Out campsite beside the dry Aba Huab riverbed was sandy and hot. We chose a spot in the shade of a large tree and proceeded to set up camp. The hot, dry air left us feeling lethargic. We sipped cold drinks from our fridge and played a game of scrabble in the shade.
Charlotte prepared us a delicious lamb stew. Al provided some tasty South African wine.
For the first time our sleep was interrupted by the hum of mosquitoes and / or flies, but at least we are south of the malarial zone.
I have attempted to post photos but the Internet is too slow here.
We lingered over breakfast (thanks to Charlotte for the great omlettes) then dove south about 100km to Outjo. Here we stopped for pastries at a German cafė, so German the fair-haired woman serving us seemed unable to understand our ignorance about the contents of the various German pastries. This cafe is apparently a must-stop destination for busloads of German tourists. We refueled and reprovisioned then drove west.
The air was hot, the landscape was barren and dry, and we no longer saw wild animals. Instead, we saw small groups of cows and goats, plus a few people and their simple habitations. The paved road ended with still well over 100 km ahead to our next camp. A few very poor, rural "farms" could be seen along our route, dusty collections of small shacks with tin roofs. A local guide later told us it was school break, which is why we saw so many children home from residential school, hanging out on the side of the road. Their were usually holding up hand-made "art" and trinkets for sale to anyone passing by. And why in this remote area would there be so many We were on our way to a national monument: Twyfelfontein or Ui/Ais Stone Age rock engravings.
We began to detect mountains on the distant horizon. As wet got closer to the mountains we noticed outcroppings of smooth, round, red boulders, which glowed in the late afternoon sun. There were many dips in the road, mostly dry river beds which are mostly soft sand channels through the dry sand and rocky landscape.
Out campsite beside the dry Aba Huab riverbed was sandy and hot. We chose a spot in the shade of a large tree and proceeded to set up camp. The hot, dry air left us feeling lethargic. We sipped cold drinks from our fridge and played a game of scrabble in the shade.
Charlotte prepared us a delicious lamb stew. Al provided some tasty South African wine.
For the first time our sleep was interrupted by the hum of mosquitoes and / or flies, but at least we are south of the malarial zone.
I have attempted to post photos but the Internet is too slow here.
Monday, May 6, 2013
Damaraland
From the rock engravings we drove a short distance to see a rocky area called the 'Organ pipes' (because the basalt is split into columns), then another called 'Burnt mountain' (because the rock is so black it looks burned).
As we drove south we came across more and more interesting rock formations like these:
May 1
Etosha NP, day 3
Another amazing morning of bird and animal viewing. Irene was up first (as usual). It was just before 6 am and a good time to head over to the water hole. Dawn and dusk don't last long at this latitude and the best time to see some of the wildlife - and take photos in magical light - is at dawn and dusk. There were signs that elephants had been at the water hole during the night. Other campers told of two lions stalking an antelope, and two wildebeasts fighting. But in the breaking dawn the only action was an army of guinea fowl marching across the barren landscape to the pond. It takes patience to wait and watch. Obviously we should have stayed up later the night before when the nocturnal animals were active.
After a wonderful breakfast of delicious crepes (thanks, Charlotte) we headed down a gravel track to a look-out spot on the edge of the pan. Of course we saw water in the distance, and islands reflected in that sea of blue. Dry salt on the 'beach' glimmered fresh white in the morning sun. But of course there was no water in the distance; the blue sea was just a mirage caused by the heat. Etosha NP is 20,000 square km and the pan is 5,000 square km. Distances are hard to judge in such a flat and barren landscape, and we could easily imagine being disoriented beyond the sign-posted gravel tracks provided for visitors.
As we drove along - visitors are not allowed to get out of their vehicles except at designated,"safe" places - we observed 3 elephants browsing among the bushes at the edge of our track, several species of antelopes grazing on scrub grasses, and giraffes standing here and there.
We returned to a waterhole we had visited the day before and found a similar variety of springboks, zebras, and wildebeests.
Our next stop was at a water hole known to be frequented by elephants, and we were not disappointed. About a dozen elephants were hovering around the water hole, and a few others were standing nearby. At the water hole the elephants were drinking, splashing water over themselves, and tossing water at each other.
We stayed over an hour, maybe two? The elephants were active and interesting to watch. Some started kicking up muddy water, then some began 'nuzzling' each other, first by laying their trunks on each other's backs and then by twisting trunks around trunks. We noticed two males interacting, and their sexual excitement....Young stayed close to parents, then sometimes separated. We didn't understand the dynamics. After an hour a group of about six more elephants arrived, and mingled. There were some signs of aggression too, when a large male pushed another away. This happens numerous times.
A lion wandered past, and lay down in the shade of a small bush. She seemed relaxed and lazy, yet ever alert. A giraffe walked over, circumnavigated the pond, stopped and looked for over half an hour, then finally walked off into the brush. Some warthogs came by and the lion got up to chase them, but then gave up and returned to the shade of the bush. The warthog young scurried away, but the parents came back. They lion gazed lazily, and seemed disinterested in them.
We finally decided it was time for lunch and drove a short distance to the safe picnic zone, a shady area behind a wire fence. After our picnic we returned to the waterhole to see the elephants once more. The lion had left.
We drove along gravel roads to the park gate, then to our next camp. It was warm and sunny so we rested in the shade of a single tree, too hot to exert ourselves. Another amazing day ended with a delicious dinner at our private table, complete with a candle and tablecloth, and lovely Cape wine.
Sunday, May 5, 2013
April 30
Etosha NP, camp to Okaukujejo camp
This day started at dawn, when Irene went over to the water hole to see which animals might be there. The waterhole is a safe place at Halali camp where visitors can sit in a sort of blind, called a 'bird hide' in the UK, to watch birds and animals without disturbing them. This viewing area is quite big, with benches that could comfortably seat dozens of humans watching wildlife. The great variety of expensive camera equipment far outnumbers the animal species that can be viewed at any one time so if animals are scarce there's still plenty of photographic equipment to oogle!
Elephant scat at the water hole indicated we had slept through some potentially interesting viewing. But in the early morning light the only creatures that visited the wiser hole were about 40 crowned guinea fowl.
After a simple breakfast of granola, fruit and yoghurt we set off for our next 75 km safari expedition from camp to camp. The day was hot and hazy, breezy and dusty. The sun felt intense. We drove south along the gravel road to a waterhole, places sometimes empty, sometimes teeming with life. This was the later. By the end of an hour we had probably seen perhaps 1000 animals, and even if most were the delightful springboks, and the zebras who made up more than half, it was a great start. To date we have hardly missed any of the antelope that we had scarcely heard of just months ago. We've had enough Wildebeasts, to see the variation in them, watched the stately Oryx with its meter long horns, seen so many impala that we ignore them despite their near perfection, had
More viewers arrived; we moved off. A tawny eagle on top a tree attracted us to a side loop, and just then Devon spotted one lion, then a second. Soon they were close enough that we kept one hand on the window switch, but it was mid morning, so they were more interested in shade and sleep than us. Again, more viewers came by and we left the lions to them. Within a few kilometers we found three cars on the side of the road with passengers all looking out. Tis time it was a whole pride: two large males, three females, two young cubs and now wee cub - all in the shade of the only tree.
Our morning continued as the previous two, with many stops to view wildlife. By noon we were hot and satisfied, so we headed to our next camp, called Kaukuejo. The water hole at this camp is larger and more open than the camp at Halali, and seems to be more active with animals through the day. On our arrival we saw giraffes and zebras as well as various antelopes.
After a lunch picnic at our rather hot and dusty campsite we headed over to relax in the shade by the pool. Charlotte and Devon went swimming. Our silly of us to neglect to bring our swim suits as it would have been great to have a refreshing dip.
Dinner was another delicious feast created by Charlotte and Devon. Afterwards we walked to the waterhole to observe the action. A rhino wandered over to drink, slowly dipping and sipping multiple times, all very much in slow motion. Charlotte and Devon stayed later and saw some lions chase a prey. Later the elephants came....
Irene
Sent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?
Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com
Wednesday, May 1, 2013
April 29
Etosha NP
Irene
Onguma Lodge was so delightful that we opted to linger until late morning before setting off. Still, we had about 75 km between Onguma and our next campsite at Halali, in Etosha NP so by 1100 we left this paradise camp for our next 'safari'. The fact that it took us some 6 hours to dive 75 km gives you an idea of how many times we stopped to see animals and birds along the way.
This area is mostly covered in flat scrub brush, with a dry open floor. The huge Etosha Pan (5000 sq km) dominates the horizon to the west while all around the sandy surface is covered is yellow grasses, some scrub bushes, and very few small trees. The Etosha NP is 20,000 sq km and we ( the public) can access the section east of the pan.
Animals viewed today included herds of wildebeest, springbok, steenbok, impalla, about a dozen kudu. We also saw large numbers of zebra, and learned there are over 18.000 Burchell's zebra in Etosha NP. We also saw plenty of giraffes.
Near a water hole a group of warthogs darted around. Beneath some bushes a fleet of banded mongoose loped by. In a few open spaces a single jackal trotted along, one of them laying down on the gravel track fairly near our car. Off in the distance we often spotted ostrich grazing.
In the bushes we spotted all sorts of birds including some yellow- billed - but more often red-billed - hornbills . Dozens of African citrol canaries flew out of a bush next to us. Our best sightings, were, of course, those that are of endangered species. We had 4 or 5 sightings of the quite large kori Bustard, for example, a ground foraging bird the size of a turkey.
Each sighting of anything new had Devon and Charlotte thumbing through their field guide, while Irene consulted her mammal ID app in her iPad. Then information was read outloud, followed by more discussions.
Four sets of eyes in one vehicle meant there were frequent calls to "STOP", indicating there was something special to view and photograph. The big animals hardly needed a spotter.
Near the end of the day, when we were satiated and ready to set up camp, we rounded a corner and stooped....a huge bull elephant was blocking our path! (This is why the speed limit is low. ) We waited, of course, but as the bull's family was also about, he ordered us by the flapping of the large ears, then the trumpeting, to please back off slowly. Backing up helped, and finally the bull left the road somwe could proceed.
We had planned to get to our camp by three, but it was getting on five when we finally got in. Before setting camp we watched the sun set over the local water hole, and as if on queueout, a black rhino wandered out from the bush! When we returned to the water hole later another rhino and calf wandered out to drink. If we had stayed later we might have seen more, but it had been a full day!
Charlotte and Devon created another tasty dinner. Al opened a good red. We talked about our sightings. Quite possibly on each day here we can see as many large mammals as one might see in a lifetime anywhere in North America (except of course if one were privileged enough to have experienced the Northern Caribou, and perhaps discounting large groups do sea mammals on our own coast).
A honey badger was on the prowl. We packed away all our food and retreated for a solid sleep in our roof tents.
Irene
Sent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?
Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com
April 29
Etosha NP
Onguma Lodge was so delightful that we opted to linger until late morning before setting off. Still, we had about 75 km between Onguma and our next campsite at Halali, in Etosha NP so by 1100 we left this paradise camp for our next 'safari'. The fact that it took us some 6 hours to dive 75 km gives you an idea of how many times we stopped to see animals and birds along the way.
This area is mostly covered in flat scrub brush, with a dry open floor. The huge Etosha Pan (5000 sq km) dominates the horizon to the west while all around the sandy surface is covered is yellow grasses, some scrub bushes, and very few small trees. The Etosha NP is 20,000 sq km and we ( the public) can access the section east of the pan.
Animals viewed today included herds of wildebeest, springbok, steenbok, impalla, about a dozen kudu. We also saw large numbers of zebra, and learned there are over 18.000 Burchell's zebra in Etosha NP. We also saw plenty of giraffes.
Near a water hole a group of warthogs darted around. Beneath some bushes a fleet of banded mongoose loped by. In a few open spaces a single jackal trotted along, one of them laying down on the gravel track fairly near our car. Off in the distance we often spotted ostrich grazing.
In the bushes we spotted all sorts of birds including some yellow- billed - but more often red-billed - hornbills . Dozens of African citrol canaries flew out of a bush next to us. Our best sightings, were, of course, those that are of endangered species. We had 4 or 5 sightings of the quite large kori Bustard, for example, a ground foraging bird the size of a turkey.
Each sighting of anything new had Devon and Charlotte thumbing through their field guide, while Irene consulted her mammal ID app in her iPad. Then information was read outloud, followed by more discussions.
Four sets of eyes in one vehicle meant there were frequent calls to "STOP", indicating there was something special to view and photograph. The big animals hardly needed a spotter.
Near the end of the day, when we were satiated and ready to set up camp, we rounded a corner and stooped....a huge bull elephant was blocking our path! (This is why the speed limit is low. ) We waited, of course, but as the bull's family was also about, he ordered us by the flapping of the large ears, then the trumpeting, to please back off slowly. Backing up helped, and finally the bull left the road somwe could proceed.
We had planned to get to our camp by three, but it was getting on five when we finally got in. Before setting camp we watched the sun set over the local water hole, and as if on queueout, a black rhino wandered out from the bush! When we returned to the water hole later another rhino and calf wandered out to drink. If we had stayed later we might have seen more, but it had been a full day!
Charlotte and Devon created another tasty dinner. Al opened a good red. We talked about our sightings. Quite possibly on each day here we can see as many large mammals as one might see in a lifetime anywhere in North America (except of course if one were privileged enough to have experienced the Northern Caribou, and perhaps discounting large groups do sea mammals on our own coast).
A honey badger was on the prowl. We packed away all our food and retreated for a solid sleep in our roof tents.
IreneSent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?
Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com
April 30
Etosha NP, Halali camp to Okaukujejo camp
This day started at dawn, when Irene went over to the water hole to see which animals might be there. The waterhole is a safe place at Halali camp where visitors can sit in a sort of blind (similar to a 'bird hide' in the UK) to watch birds and animals without disturbing them. This viewing area is quite big, with benches that could comfortably seat dozens of humans watching wildlife. When we were there the great variety of expensive camera equipment far outnumbered the animal species. Ha, when animals are scarce there's still plenty of photographic equipment to oogle!
Elephant scat at the water hole indicated we had slept through some interesting nocturnal visitations. But in the early morning light the only creatures visiting the water hole were about 40 crowned guinea fowl. They seem to march in at first light, secure perhaps that the nocturnal predators will have retreated.
After a simple breakfast of granola, fruit and yoghurt we set off for our next camp, about 75 to the SW. The day was hot and hazy, breezy and dusty. The sun felt intense. We drove south along the gravel road a short distance to a waterhole. These places are sometimes empty, sometimes teeming with life. This was the later. By the end of an hour we had probably seen 1000 animals! The springboks and zebras made up more than half. To date we have hardly missed any of the antelope that we had scarcely heard of just months ago. The most common antelope we have seen to date are impala and springbok. We have also seen kudu and steinbok. We've seen enough wildebeests to see the variation in them, and especially love the oryx gemsboks with its straight, meter long horns. We have seen so many impala and springbok in just one week that we almost ignore them, despite their photogenic and graceful perfection.
More viewers drove up to the pan so we moved off. A little further along the road a tawny eagle on top a tree attracted us to a side loop, and just then Devon suddenly spotted one lion, then a second! We parked at the edge of a grassy ravine and watched. Soon the lions had sauntered close enough that we kept one hand on the window switch. But it was mid morning, so they were more interested in shade and sleep in the shade than in approaching us. Soon more viewers came by and we left, hoping,they too would see the lions laying down nearby. Within a few kilometers we found three cars on the side of the road with binoculars directed to the north. This time it was a whole pride of lions, two large males, three females, two young cubs and one wee cub, all lounging in the shade of the only tree. Our field guide says lions are only active a few hours in 24, and mostly at night.
We four were satiated and decided to head for our next camp, but on the way we stopped at one more waterhole. The place was busy with animals - Wildebeasts, springboks, steenboks, impalas, one giraffe and plenty of birds.
We arrived at our next camp in time to enjoy a couple of hours by the pool, where Charlotte and Devon went swimming. (Al and I didn't think to bring our swimsuits and this was not a place for skinny dipping! ).
We also went by the water hole at the camp, which was always busy with animal activity. This waterhole is more open than the Halali waterhole, and was busier during our stay. After dark we saw a rhino come to drink at the waterhole, followed by others. Then some lions came to the water hole, and attempted to kill an antelope ( without success). Later some elephants stopped by to drink......
If you ever get a a chance to visit Namibia you must come here! There are some lovely chalets right at the water hole, if camping is not your style. You could observe the water hole from your own private deck!
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