Damaraland

From the rock engravings we drove a short distance to see a rocky area called the 'Organ pipes' (because the basalt is split into columns), then another called 'Burnt mountain' (because the rock is so black it looks burned).  

As we drove south we came across more and more interesting rock formations like these: 

Damaraland

Charlotte examining a tree trunk in the petrified forest.

May 1

Etosha NP, day 3

Another amazing morning of bird and animal viewing.  Irene was up first (as usual).  It was just before 6 am and a good time to head over to the water hole.  Dawn and dusk don't last long at this latitude and the best time to see some of the wildlife - and take photos in magical light - is at dawn and dusk. There were signs that elephants had been at the water hole during the night.  Other campers told of two lions stalking an antelope, and two wildebeasts fighting.  But in the breaking dawn the only action was an army of guinea fowl marching across the barren landscape to the pond.  It takes patience to wait and watch.  Obviously we should have stayed up later the night before when the nocturnal animals were active.

After a wonderful breakfast of delicious crepes (thanks, Charlotte) we headed down a gravel track to a look-out spot on the edge of the pan.  Of course  we saw water in the distance, and islands reflected in that sea of blue.  Dry salt on the 'beach' glimmered fresh white in the morning sun.  But of course there  was no water in the distance; the blue sea was just a mirage caused by the heat.  Etosha NP is 20,000 square km and the pan is 5,000 square km.  Distances are hard to judge in such a flat and barren landscape, and we could easily imagine being disoriented beyond the sign-posted gravel tracks provided for visitors.  

 

As we drove along -  visitors are not allowed to get out of their vehicles except at designated,"safe" places - we observed 3 elephants browsing among the bushes at the edge of our track, several species of antelopes grazing on scrub grasses, and giraffes standing here and there.

We returned to a waterhole we had visited the day before and found a similar variety of springboks, zebras, and wildebeests.  

Our next stop was at a water hole known to be frequented by elephants, and we were not disappointed.  About a dozen elephants were hovering around the water hole,  and a few others were standing nearby.  At the water hole the elephants were drinking, splashing water over themselves, and tossing water at each other.  

We stayed over an hour, maybe two?  The elephants were active and interesting to watch.  Some started  kicking up muddy water, then some began 'nuzzling' each other, first by laying their trunks on each other's backs and then by twisting trunks around trunks.  We noticed two males interacting, and their sexual excitement....Young stayed close to parents, then sometimes separated.  We didn't understand the dynamics.  After an hour a group of about six more elephants arrived, and mingled.  There were some signs of aggression too, when a large male pushed another away. This happens numerous times.

A lion wandered past, and lay down in the shade of a small bush.  She seemed relaxed and lazy, yet ever alert.  A giraffe walked over, circumnavigated the pond, stopped and looked for over half an hour, then finally walked off into the brush.  Some warthogs came by and the lion got up to chase them, but then gave up and returned to the shade of the bush.  The warthog young scurried away, but the parents came back.  They lion gazed lazily, and seemed disinterested in them. 

We finally decided it was time for lunch and drove a short distance to the safe picnic zone, a shady area behind a wire fence.  After our picnic we returned to the waterhole to see the elephants once more.  The lion had left.  

We drove along gravel roads to the park gate, then to our next camp.  It was warm and sunny so we rested in the shade of a single tree, too hot to exert ourselves.  Another amazing day ended with a delicious dinner at our private table, complete with a candle and tablecloth, and lovely Cape wine. 

April 30

Etosha NP,  camp  to Okaukujejo camp

This day started at dawn, when Irene went over to the water hole to see which animals might be there.  The waterhole is a safe place at Halali camp where visitors can sit in a sort of blind, called a 'bird hide' in the UK, to watch birds and animals without disturbing them.  This viewing area is quite big, with benches that could comfortably seat dozens of humans watching wildlife.  The great variety of expensive camera equipment far outnumbers the animal species that can be viewed at any one time so if animals are scarce there's still  plenty of photographic equipment to oogle! 

Elephant scat at the water hole indicated we had slept through some potentially interesting viewing.  But in the early morning light the only creatures that visited the wiser hole were about 40 crowned guinea fowl.  

After a simple breakfast of granola, fruit and yoghurt we set off for our next 75 km safari expedition from camp to camp.  The day was hot and hazy, breezy and dusty.  The sun felt intense.  We drove south along the gravel road to a waterhole, places sometimes empty, sometimes teeming with life.  This was the later. By the end of an hour we had probably seen perhaps 1000 animals, and even if most were the delightful springboks, and the zebras who made up more than half, it was a great start.  To date we have hardly missed any of the antelope that we had scarcely heard of just months ago.   We've had enough Wildebeasts, to see the variation in them, watched the stately Oryx with its meter long horns, seen so many impala that we ignore them despite their near perfection, had 

More viewers arrived; we moved off.  A tawny eagle on top a tree attracted us to a side loop, and just then Devon spotted one lion, then a second.  Soon they were close enough that we kept one hand on the window switch, but it was mid morning, so they were more interested in shade and sleep than us.  Again, more viewers came by and we left the lions to them.  Within a few kilometers we found three cars on the side of the road with passengers all looking out.  Tis time it was a whole pride: two large males, three females, two young cubs and now wee cub - all in the shade of the only tree.  

Our morning continued as the previous two, with many stops to view wildlife.  By noon we were hot and satisfied, so we headed to our next camp, called Kaukuejo.  The water hole at this camp is larger and more open than the camp at Halali, and seems to be more active with animals through the day.  On our arrival we saw giraffes and zebras as well as various antelopes.  

After a lunch picnic at our rather hot and dusty campsite we headed over to relax in the shade by the pool.  Charlotte and Devon went swimming.  Our silly of us to neglect to bring our swim suits as it would have been great to have a refreshing dip.  

Dinner was another delicious feast created by Charlotte and Devon.  Afterwards we walked to the waterhole to observe the action.  A rhino wandered over to drink, slowly dipping and sipping multiple times, all very much in slow motion.  Charlotte and Devon stayed later and saw some lions chase a prey.  Later the elephants came....

Irene

Sent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?

Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com

April 29

Etosha  NP

Onguma Lodge was so delightful that we opted to linger until late morning before setting off.  Still, we had about 75 km between Onguma and our next campsite at Halali, in Etosha NP so by 1100 we left this paradise camp for our next 'safari'.  The fact that it took us some 6 hours to dive 75 km gives you an idea of how many times we stopped to see animals and birds along the way. 

This area is mostly covered in flat scrub brush, with a dry open floor. The huge Etosha Pan (5000 sq km) dominates the horizon to the west while all around the sandy surface is covered is yellow grasses, some scrub bushes, and very few small trees.  The Etosha NP is 20,000 sq km and we ( the public) can access the section east of the pan.  

Animals viewed today included herds of wildebeest, springbok, steenbok, impalla, about a dozen kudu.  We also saw large numbers of zebra, and learned there are over 18.000 Burchell's zebra in Etosha NP.  We also saw plenty of giraffes.    

Near a water hole a group of warthogs darted around.  Beneath some bushes a fleet of banded mongoose loped by.  In a few open spaces a single jackal trotted along, one of them laying down on the gravel track fairly near our car.  Off in the distance we often spotted ostrich grazing. 

In the bushes we spotted all sorts of birds including some yellow- billed - but more often red-billed - hornbills .  Dozens of African citrol canaries flew out of a bush next to us. Our best sightings, were, of course, those that are of endangered species.  We had 4 or 5 sightings of the quite large kori Bustard, for example, a ground foraging bird the size of a turkey.  

Each sighting of anything new had Devon and Charlotte thumbing through their  field guide, while Irene consulted her mammal ID app in her iPad.  Then information was read outloud, followed by more discussions. 

Four sets of eyes in one vehicle meant there were frequent calls to "STOP", indicating there was something special to view and photograph. The big animals hardly needed a spotter.  

Near the end of the day, when we were satiated and ready to set up camp, we rounded a corner and stooped....a  huge bull elephant was blocking our path!  (This is why the speed limit is low. )  We waited, of course, but as the bull's family was also about, he ordered us by the flapping of the large ears, then the trumpeting, to please back off slowly.  Backing up helped, and finally the bull left the road somwe could proceed.

We had planned to get to our camp by three, but it was getting on five when we finally got in.  Before setting camp we watched the sun set over the local water hole, and as if on queueout,  a black rhino wandered out from the bush!   When we returned to the water hole later another rhino and calf wandered out to drink.  If we had stayed later we might have seen more, but it had been a full day! 

Charlotte and Devon created another tasty dinner.  Al opened a good red.  We talked about our sightings.  Quite possibly on each day here we can see as many large mammals as one might see in a lifetime anywhere in North America (except of course if one were privileged enough to have experienced the Northern Caribou, and perhaps discounting large groups do sea mammals on our own coast).

A honey badger was on the prowl.  We packed away all our food and retreated for a solid sleep in our roof tents. 

Irene

Sent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?

Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com

April 29

Etosha  NP

Onguma Lodge was so delightful that we opted to linger until late morning before setting off.  Still, we had about 75 km between Onguma and our next campsite at Halali, in Etosha NP so by 1100 we left this paradise camp for our next 'safari'.  The fact that it took us some 6 hours to dive 75 km gives you an idea of how many times we stopped to see animals and birds along the way. 

This area is mostly covered in flat scrub brush, with a dry open floor. The huge Etosha Pan (5000 sq km) dominates the horizon to the west while all around the sandy surface is covered is yellow grasses, some scrub bushes, and very few small trees.  The Etosha NP is 20,000 sq km and we ( the public) can access the section east of the pan.  

Animals viewed today included herds of wildebeest, springbok, steenbok, impalla, about a dozen kudu.  We also saw large numbers of zebra, and learned there are over 18.000 Burchell's zebra in Etosha NP.  We also saw plenty of giraffes.    

Near a water hole a group of warthogs darted around.  Beneath some bushes a fleet of banded mongoose loped by.  In a few open spaces a single jackal trotted along, one of them laying down on the gravel track fairly near our car.  Off in the distance we often spotted ostrich grazing. 

In the bushes we spotted all sorts of birds including some yellow- billed - but more often red-billed - hornbills .  Dozens of African citrol canaries flew out of a bush next to us. Our best sightings, were, of course, those that are of endangered species.  We had 4 or 5 sightings of the quite large kori Bustard, for example, a ground foraging bird the size of a turkey.  

Each sighting of anything new had Devon and Charlotte thumbing through their  field guide, while Irene consulted her mammal ID app in her iPad.  Then information was read outloud, followed by more discussions. 

Four sets of eyes in one vehicle meant there were frequent calls to "STOP", indicating there was something special to view and photograph. The big animals hardly needed a spotter.  

Near the end of the day, when we were satiated and ready to set up camp, we rounded a corner and stooped....a  huge bull elephant was blocking our path!  (This is why the speed limit is low. )  We waited, of course, but as the bull's family was also about, he ordered us by the flapping of the large ears, then the trumpeting, to please back off slowly.  Backing up helped, and finally the bull left the road somwe could proceed.

We had planned to get to our camp by three, but it was getting on five when we finally got in.  Before setting camp we watched the sun set over the local water hole, and as if on queueout,  a black rhino wandered out from the bush!   When we returned to the water hole later another rhino and calf wandered out to drink.  If we had stayed later we might have seen more, but it had been a full day! 

Charlotte and Devon created another tasty dinner.  Al opened a good red.  We talked about our sightings.  Quite possibly on each day here we can see as many large mammals as one might see in a lifetime anywhere in North America (except of course if one were privileged enough to have experienced the Northern Caribou, and perhaps discounting large groups do sea mammals on our own coast).

A honey badger was on the prowl.  We packed away all our food and retreated for a solid sleep in our roof tents. 

Irene

Sent from my ipad....Oops, did auto - complete create strange words?

Follow our news: whitneywanderings.blogspot.com

April 30

Etosha NP,  Halali camp  to Okaukujejo camp

This day started at dawn, when Irene went over to the water hole to see which animals might be there.  The waterhole is a safe place at Halali camp where visitors can sit in a sort of blind  (similar to a 'bird hide' in the UK) to watch birds and animals without disturbing them.  This viewing area is quite big, with benches that could comfortably seat dozens of humans watching wildlife.  When we were there the great variety of expensive camera equipment far outnumbered the animal species.  Ha, when animals are scarce there's still  plenty of photographic equipment to oogle! 

Elephant scat at the water hole indicated we had slept through some interesting nocturnal visitations.  But in the early morning light the only creatures visiting the water hole were about 40 crowned guinea fowl.  They seem to march in at first light, secure perhaps that the nocturnal predators will have  retreated. 

After a simple breakfast of granola, fruit and yoghurt we set off for our next camp, about 75 to the SW.  The day was hot and hazy, breezy and dusty.  The sun felt intense.  We drove south along the gravel road a short distance to a waterhole.  These places are sometimes empty, sometimes teeming with life.  This was the later. By the end of an hour we had probably seen 1000 animals!  The springboks and zebras made up more than half.   To date we have hardly missed any of the antelope that we had scarcely heard of just months ago. The most common antelope we have seen to date are impala and springbok.  We have also seen kudu and steinbok.  We've seen enough  wildebeests to see the variation in them, and especially love the oryx gemsboks with its straight, meter long horns.  We have seen so many impala and springbok in just one week that we almost ignore them, despite their photogenic and graceful perfection. 

More viewers drove up to the pan so we moved off.  A little further along the road a tawny eagle on top a tree attracted us to a side loop, and just then Devon suddenly spotted one lion, then a second!  We parked at the edge of a grassy ravine and watched.  Soon the lions had sauntered close enough that we kept one hand on the window switch.  But it was mid morning, so they were more interested in shade and sleep in the shade than in approaching us.  Soon more viewers came by and we left, hoping,they too would see the lions laying down nearby. Within a few kilometers we found three cars on the side of the road with binoculars directed to the north.  This time it was a whole pride of lions, two large males, three females, two young cubs and one wee cub, all lounging in the shade of the only tree.  Our field guide says lions are only active a few hours in 24, and mostly at night.  

We four were satiated and decided to head for our next camp, but on the way we stopped at one more waterhole.  The place was busy with animals - Wildebeasts, springboks, steenboks, impalas, one giraffe and plenty of birds.  

We arrived at our next camp in time to enjoy a couple of hours by the pool, where Charlotte and Devon went swimming.  (Al and I didn't think to bring our swimsuits and this was not a place for skinny dipping! ).

We also went by the water hole at the camp, which was always busy with animal activity.  This waterhole is more open than the Halali waterhole, and was busier during our stay.  After dark we saw a rhino come to drink at the waterhole, followed by others.  Then some  lions came to the water hole, and attempted to kill an antelope ( without success).  Later some elephants stopped by to drink......

If you ever get a a chance to visit Namibia you must come here!  There are some lovely chalets right at the water hole, if camping is not your style.   You could observe the water hole from your own private deck! 

By the way, you can easily travel here on your own, driving a rental vehicle to lodges or campsites where you can sign up for guided tours if you wish, or drive around on your own.   Driving our own vehicle allows us the freedom to linger where we see something interesting.   Campsites are well set up with hot showers and kitchen facilities.  Our 4x4 allows us to access amazing tracks.  Our roof tents and camping gear gives us the choice to be independent.  Even though the guide books encourage per- booking we have learned that most places have room format minute arrivals.