Etosha NP, Halali camp to Okaukujejo camp
This day started at dawn, when Irene went over to the water hole to see which animals might be there. The waterhole is a safe place at Halali camp where visitors can sit in a sort of blind (similar to a 'bird hide' in the UK) to watch birds and animals without disturbing them. This viewing area is quite big, with benches that could comfortably seat dozens of humans watching wildlife. When we were there the great variety of expensive camera equipment far outnumbered the animal species. Ha, when animals are scarce there's still plenty of photographic equipment to oogle!
Elephant scat at the water hole indicated we had slept through some interesting nocturnal visitations. But in the early morning light the only creatures visiting the water hole were about 40 crowned guinea fowl. They seem to march in at first light, secure perhaps that the nocturnal predators will have retreated.
After a simple breakfast of granola, fruit and yoghurt we set off for our next camp, about 75 to the SW. The day was hot and hazy, breezy and dusty. The sun felt intense. We drove south along the gravel road a short distance to a waterhole. These places are sometimes empty, sometimes teeming with life. This was the later. By the end of an hour we had probably seen 1000 animals! The springboks and zebras made up more than half. To date we have hardly missed any of the antelope that we had scarcely heard of just months ago. The most common antelope we have seen to date are impala and springbok. We have also seen kudu and steinbok. We've seen enough wildebeests to see the variation in them, and especially love the oryx gemsboks with its straight, meter long horns. We have seen so many impala and springbok in just one week that we almost ignore them, despite their photogenic and graceful perfection.
More viewers drove up to the pan so we moved off. A little further along the road a tawny eagle on top a tree attracted us to a side loop, and just then Devon suddenly spotted one lion, then a second! We parked at the edge of a grassy ravine and watched. Soon the lions had sauntered close enough that we kept one hand on the window switch. But it was mid morning, so they were more interested in shade and sleep in the shade than in approaching us. Soon more viewers came by and we left, hoping,they too would see the lions laying down nearby. Within a few kilometers we found three cars on the side of the road with binoculars directed to the north. This time it was a whole pride of lions, two large males, three females, two young cubs and one wee cub, all lounging in the shade of the only tree. Our field guide says lions are only active a few hours in 24, and mostly at night.
We four were satiated and decided to head for our next camp, but on the way we stopped at one more waterhole. The place was busy with animals - Wildebeasts, springboks, steenboks, impalas, one giraffe and plenty of birds.
We arrived at our next camp in time to enjoy a couple of hours by the pool, where Charlotte and Devon went swimming. (Al and I didn't think to bring our swimsuits and this was not a place for skinny dipping! ).
We also went by the water hole at the camp, which was always busy with animal activity. This waterhole is more open than the Halali waterhole, and was busier during our stay. After dark we saw a rhino come to drink at the waterhole, followed by others. Then some lions came to the water hole, and attempted to kill an antelope ( without success). Later some elephants stopped by to drink......
If you ever get a a chance to visit Namibia you must come here! There are some lovely chalets right at the water hole, if camping is not your style. You could observe the water hole from your own private deck!
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